Saturday, April 30, 2011

Half way

April 28 Terradillos

Chasing our shadows was the game of the day. With the sun directly behind us raging red, our shadows elongated as the sun became a mature yellow. Our feet chased our head never winning. Like the Central Valley of CA, farmland forever. Never seeming to end.
We arrived at our resting stop around noon. Many advantages to arriving early, first into the shower and first to wash clothes and get them on the line. For the last two days we have enjoyed Ca blue skies. The word has been relayed through the Pilgrim weather net, tomorrow will have scattered showers followed by more impressive weather for the weekend. It is time to be tested: we have not had anything but a simple sprinkle once during the first half of our journey. At this location we are at the half way point. 


As we were resting in our room, the door opened and we were introduced to Meta from Slavonia. Cheery and an energetic world traveler. She is such a positive representative of her country wishing us to come visit the islands of the Adriatic.  Meta, If Slavonians are as interesting and effervesant as you,  we will be coming.  At dinner another interesting introduction. Dominque from Germany an outstanding basketball player in a quandary over which of the many paths available to him  to follow. We shared thoughts. His mind keenly shaped by the challenges he faces in today's global world will eventually spell out a partial answer. 

Day 16: El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla-Leon



The last note left you all waiting. We decided to take the bus from Mansilla into Leon. We had to wait 2 hours at the bus stop in Mansilla. The reason for taking the bus was to save ourselves extreme stress on endless miles of city streets where markings of the camino  are often a challenge to find.

Leon has a spirited narrow street with a human in motion flow to it. Arriving on Saturday brought every inhabitant and offspring out for a romp in its medieval narrowness from all directions. The view of the Cathedral unexpectedly appeared. The imagination can't assimilate easily the amount of non structural glass and reduced structural  material. Why doesn't the wind blow the Cathedral over? The windows are several stories larger the further you glance upward. Rose windows everywhere. A very delicate embracing of it's mission. 






Of interest the albergue run by the Benedictine Nuns with 80 beds per room was one of the quietist so far. Beside the variations in the daily walks, the contrasts of the albergues we have stayed in will be a large part of our camino remembrances. We will walk through Astorga tomorrow to dwell for evening at Rechivaldo, then up the hill to stay at Foncebadon. 

Joan and I are writing the info for this blog using only an iPhone and iPod. We won't view the blog until we get home. So please excuse misspellings and occasional sentences that are incomplete. Joan can't send her writings until we find wi fi availability. So accept our hunt and peck delivery system. We praise John and Robin for their continual support and advise. Cheers to all our friends.



Look carefully at the map where we crossed over to the ancient Roman road

Name:
Burgo Ranero-Mansilla Mulas
Date:
Apr 30, 2011 5:57 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 27, 2011)
Distance:
13.8 miles
Elapsed Time:
4:03:14
Avg Speed:
3.4 mph
Max Speed:
6.8 mph
Avg Pace:
17' 35" per mile
Min Altitude:
1,856 ft
Max Altitude:
2,893 ft
Start Time:
2011-04-30T03:57:05Z
Start Location:
Latitude:
42.422865º N
Longitude:
5.219678º W
End Location:
Latitude:
42.495910º N
Longitude:
5.415887º W











Day 15: Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero



April 29-El Burgo Ranero Stu writes
The flat horizon to horizon walks will end with tomorrows straightest of them all. Fortunately the scattered rain predicted for today just brushed us. We started to ready our ponchos when it stopped. The day became sunny and clear. We would like to think we could finish up two weeks from today without rain. CA dreamer.

Today we stopped in Sahagun to respond to warnings to carry adequate food and water. Joan ordered a half a kilo of freshly sliced salami then returned to looking around the store. When she saw the pile representing 1.1 lbs she was impressed. We also purchase sheep cheese for enhancement. 4 bottles of water plus food, increases pack weight by 7lbs. We are ready for the longest straight stretch of the camino. It is a 4 foot wide path neighboring a country road for 12 miles . If  we get started at 6 as planned,we should be in Mulas by 1030.  We are waiting at this sending. 


April 29 Friday Joan writes
We went from Terradillos de Los Templarios to El Burgos Ranero about 19 miles today. We stopped in Sahagun which is a large town with some beautiful 13 century buildings. We spent some time looking around and shopping for food for the day and tomorrow. You never know if there will be a restaurant or a store. Once again we walked through green fields that you could see for miles in the distance. The weather  is still sunny and beautiful.  We arrived before 1 to the municipal aubergue. It is a 20 bed small place you give a donation. No set price. Kitchen. But no store so after hot showers we went across the street to eat. Delicious food the first course was a choice between salad green or pasta or canalini beans with clams,which were delicious. Second course was rabbit, pork or salmon or white fish with a lettuce salad on the side. We had both of the fish and a chocolate tart and a cheese tart with raspberry syrup. Bread and wine and water. It was 20 euros. We had to take a walk after we ate so much. We went to the church but like so many we have passed it was closed. It seems the priest only comes for mass 2 days a week. So nature was my church today and I prayed for our friends and family. We stood at the church watching the storks. There were 4 large nests and lots of storks up on the roof. Some pictures will follow




Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right top margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.


Name:
Terradillos-Burgo Ranero
Date:
Apr 29, 2011 5:40 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 27, 2011)
Distance:
19.3 miles
Elapsed Time:
6:04:06
Avg Speed:
3.2 mph
Max Speed:
5.9 mph
Avg Pace:
18' 55" per mile
Min Altitude:
2,602 ft
Max Altitude:
2,915 ft
Start Time:
2011-04-29T03:40:30Z
Start Location:
Latitude:
42.364487º N
Longitude:
4.884877º W
End Location:
Latitude:
42.423420º N
Longitude:
5.218548º W

















Day 14: Carrion to Terradillos


Walking with our Shadows

Name:Carrion-Terradillos
Date:Apr 28, 2011 6:00 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 27, 2011)
View on Map
Distance:17.0 miles
Elapsed Time:5:08:56
Avg Speed:3.3 mph
Max Speed:9.8 mph
Avg Pace:18' 09" per mile
Min Altitude:2,654 ft
Max Altitude:2,977 ft
Start Time:2011-04-28T04:00:08Z
Start Location:
Latitude:42.338335º N
Longitude:4.602708º W
End Location:
Latitude:42.364544º N
Longitude:4.884750º W

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

April 27 wed after Easter

We walked from Bocadillo to Carrion de Los Condes. It is about 16 miles. We have to stick with the book. Now and go where they suggest because there are miles of land without places to stay. We had a lovely walk along a canal with locks. Very much like the midi canal in France where we rented those long cigar boats. So we walked  listening to the birds. We then took a detour. One path was next to the road the other wandered thru farmland and beside a river. That is the one we took.  We got into Carrion early and are staying in hostel Santiago. It is a hotel and has both private rooms as well as rooms for 5 we took the room for 5. It is 10 euros each and she washed our clothes which we put on the line Anton, one of our mates, is here also he got hurt and had to slow down. We went out to lunch and I had a typical tuna salad with white asparagus and red peppers as well as tomatoes lettuce and tuna. I wanted to try the soup bit no soup. Stu had shrimps and of course beer He had already eaten 2 small Bocadillo that the hostel owner gave him  they were fren chbread with egg. We visited the chuch which is beautiful  and prayed for all of you We saw the city and even laid in the park in the sun We went to the farmacia to get more bandages I could not describe the problem with Stu's foot so he took off his shoe and sock. A picture is worth a thousnd words. As is his foot. 

Hontanas to Boadilla

April 26  Hontanas to Boadilla

Today is Tuesday  after Easter. We walked thru the green fields of wheat and all. Of a sudden there are the ruins of 10 th century. convent in San Anton  and a beautifully sculptured church  you walk a few feet and you are back in the fields   We passed a beauty of a church called Our lady of the apple  on we walked small villages between miles of green fields Some small villages had 2.3.or even4 churches. All dedicated to a different saint. So did building these beautiful  churches make them happy. Happiness varies so. From place to place or even time a day  this morning happiness was just enjoying the beauty from the flowers,and fields to the company I was keeping. Now this afternoon happiness is a bunk a beer a bath and clean clothes. We arrived early in our albergue  There are 2 dorms in a converted barn 24 people in each. The owner is an artist and her pictures are thru out the place. There are metal sculptures and flowers thru out the garden  the two dorms open on to a large living room with a fireplace sofa and chairs and tables   In the main house is the dining room with long tables She also is the cook. We had a light lunch of salad and an omelet of  cheese and ham with bread. We ate with a group of Spanish men who corrected my Spanish shoes are masculine and boots feminine  wine is masculine  but beer is feminine   We had a lovely time. They had the full lunch. They started with a soup  one had a white bean soup and the others had a garlic soup. No meat in it bread and garlic. It is a typical Castillian soup. Looked delicious. The soup was followed by either a sheep stew or eggs and jamon. We all washed our clothes and then laid all over the grass in this beautiful garden enjoying the sun.The aubergue is across the street from the church  on the roof of the church was a very big nest. A storks nest. We could lay on the lawn and watch the storks fly around We have quite a mixture of people. Austrailia France Spain Germany and Ireland.   Some we have never seen and some are old mates. Stu's feet are a mess where is Theresa, Marion, Patty or Karen when I need them. They have something called compeed over here it is like a rubber bandage. Stu's s toes are now incased in rubber I  may have over done  if we go by another pilgrim hospital I will stop in. The other great thing is an ibuprofen  cream that Vinnie lent me for my knee. I actually needed rubbed on my entire body but I was afraid of overdosing. You are all in my prayers.

Burgos to Hontanas

April 25. Burgos to Hantanas


Monday after Easter. We left Burgos this am after a night in a 4 star albergue.  I was able to call home and talk to my mom and wish her a happy Easter   It was wonderful to hear her voice. She has given me strength and determination  without which I could not make this trip
Well we got an early start and walked thru the quiet streets of the city. My absolute favorite time of the  day. The birds sing and my pack seems light  you just float down the street. It is dark until 7 so generally we get lost the Spanish all know the camino and help us on to the right path. We walked thru miles of green fields. Some must be wheat fields and the rest are grazing land.  I think for sheep. Since you see no cows  we walked about 30 k arriving at our destination around 1. at Hontanas   we stopped on the way for fruit and yogurt   We will send along some pictures.  Please note piles of rocks that they have taken out of the fields so they can plow the land. Piles of rocks. Walls of rock everywhere. We are in a municipal albergue tonight for 5 euros they have  a kitchen so we bought a can of beans a zuchini and an onion and had a splendid dinner
We had warm showers and washed our clothes. Another splendid day on the camino with no rain. Tomarrow we are heading for Boadillo. There is no wifi yet here in this little village tucked in the fold of the meseta. That delicious meal we had to follow with not only cookies but 2 hours later a tomato cheese and cucumber sandwich.  Our packs are pulled as tight as they can be so we cannot loose any weight around our middle. It is cold here and we have commandeered wool blankets expecting that tonight will get colder. Between meals Stu took a 2 hour nap so what else is new. Well I am sitting in my bunk that has a laundry line across it watching Stu pack and unpack. His pack gets lighter as he looses his clothes. So far a shirt a pair of shorts 2 neckerchiefs and at least a pair of socks and one of his charging plugs. We cannot say whether some pilgrims desire his things or he forgets things along the way   We laugh and I know we will have room to go shopping before we leave  These 2 pilgrims are praying for all of you. Good health and happiness 

Stu recharging

Random thoughts

Walking for hours is a physical as well as a mind thing. I use walking poles to go up hills as well as keeping the pace along flats  I could not walk the camino without them. The real heroes of the trip are feet. To be marveled at. I have compeed bandaids on both the large toe and it's neighbor. Feet are different sizes my right being a little larger. I no longer use inner and outer socks to save some space. Once a foot gets gnarly, you are going to have to live with it changing dressings as showers, work their magic, eventually winning over the adhesive. Now the paths are mostly made of rocks of all sizes imbedded in dry clay. it is easy to bruise your instep adding an additional discomfort. I would advise firmer souls that don't tend to flex so much as mine. It always amazes me when you dont know how you will get through another day of walking with stretching and long 10 hours of rest and interrupted sleep the foot recovers. And another day begins at 6am. Now the brain wanders along. It never keeps a pace. It dwells on and enhances. Today my thoughts were of what was and what is. A time ago we walked through what remained of a 12 century convent the perfectly preserved stretched rectangular windows topped with filigreed arches and a rose window with all it's whirls intact calling out for a talented colored glass mason. What happened to this convent to leave only what was. The magnificent cathedral at Burgos we visited at service time. The pipes of both human and organ gloriously filled the air, shilling experience. We came back later to walk through the church only to find we would be charge 10 eur. I understand the need. I wish I was Plastic Man to reach back in time to give the money to the convent. We are pilgrims paying to enter a church should be at our descretion. We have to this point contributed to every church we have enter.  They are way needer. But, after all, that is what is. Stu

Photos along the way






Boadilla

April 26 to Boadilla

The villages we pass through wreak of antiquity dressed up as those who live in them can afford. No matter how small the village the church resides in the middle holding it's own as much as time and weathering permits. Awe inspiring nevertheless. This relationship between human generations and the construct of their belief, can be most appreciated by those who walk the endless pilgrim path between these small enclaves. Don't assume the walk is easy. Be sure to view the map of each day's journey. Sometimes you are walking up steep grades, others are seemingly endless horizon to horizon marches. Only to be surprise by the uniquely different albergues you have been dreaming about for hours. It continued to be true when we arrived in Boadilla. Only the included pictures can verify the dimensional beauty and care this artistic family has invested in supporting the wayward ones. 

Tomorrow we plan to walk to Carrion de Los Condes. Then follow the pages till we get by Leon. We are definitely going to take the bus from Mansilla to the center of Leon, stay a night, then bus out to La Virgen Del Camino. Stu

Day 13: Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes




Name:Boadilla-carrion



Date:Apr 27, 2011 6:16 am



Map:
(valid until Oct 24, 2011)View on Map



Distance:16.1 miles



Elapsed Time:4:48:02



Avg Speed:3.3 mph



Max Speed:4.3 mph



Avg Pace:17' 55" per mile



Min Altitude:2,298 ft



Max Altitude:2,782 ft



Start Time:2011-04-27T04:16:21Z



Start Location:




Latitude:42.258671º N



Longitude:4.346815º W



End Location:




Latitude:42.338027º N



Longitude:4.602971º W






Day 12: Hontanas to Boadilla








Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
 then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.


Name:
Hontanas To Boadilla
Date:
Apr 26, 2011 6:16 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 24, 2011)
Distance:
17.6 miles
Elapsed Time:
5:36:39
Avg Speed:
3.1 mph
Max Speed:
4.5 mph
Avg Pace:
19' 05" per mile
Min Altitude:
2,516 ft
Max Altitude:
2,997 ft
Start Time:
2011-04-26T04:16:17Z
Start Location:
Latitude:
42.313802º N
Longitude:
4.048598º W
End Location:
Latitude:
42.258567º N
Longitude:
4.346694º W


























Day 11: Burgos to Hontanas










Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
 then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.


Difficulty finding our way out of Burgos

Name:
Burgos-Hontanas
Date:
Apr 25, 2011 6:33 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 24, 2011)
Distance:
18.9 miles
Elapsed Time:
5:39:39
Avg Speed:
3.3 mph
Max Speed:
6.7 mph
Avg Pace:
18' 01" per mile
Min Altitude:
2,679 ft
Max Altitude:
3,093 ft
Start Time:
2011-04-25T04:33:00Z
Start Location:
Latitude:
42.341490º N
Longitude:
3.712803º W
End Location:
Latitude:
42.312614º N
Longitude:
4.038996º W




















Sunday, April 24, 2011

Happy Easter to All

April 24 439pm. Burgos
When we stopped in Azofra, Vinny continued on. We said our farewells not expecting to see him again. Two days later while drinking a beer waiting for the albergue to open in Ortega, Vinny cheerfully  appeared suggesting we join him and continue on to Ages. Good decision. The following day we walked together to Burgos. We are attached in the camino way. He will be flying home tomorrow. His quiet sage advise about places to stay in the future, fills us with confidence. We will carry thoughts of Vinny along with us. The only part of the Camino he hasn't done is the extension to the coast. Burgos takes patience to get to. Hours of street walking is tough on all body parts. The albergue is beautiful located within looking distance of one of world's most brilliant constructs. Google it for sure. Tomorrow,up and out at 6:30 when the doors open. We plan to walk 30k a day as long as we check ahead and are sure all albergues are open. Destination is Hontanas. Happy Easter to all. J&S

Photos en route Ages to Burgos

In the church

Old man on older bridge
Green fields

Bridge along the way

Church along the Way

Albergue in Burgos

First in line at Burgos
Association albergue by cathedral in Burgos

Resting in Ages

We are now in Ages just past St Juan de Ortega. We got here early and had the entire alberque to ourselves. Shower then wash clothes no kitchen and local store the size of a closet. There are two other private albergues all on the same side of street. Picture below. Lots of camaraderie. Now they are arriving in groups. It pays to be early arrivals. There is no way of knowing which albergues open early. It seems the ones in smaller towns that have an active bar and serve food will let you  in early as they generally won't have a kitchen and they know you have walked for hours and don't mind paying for beverages and victuals.

Tomorrow we plan to set up in the albergue you recommended in Burgos. We have found our favorite food is one we never eat with such relish at home, salami. We have given up on bread because it is so dry. Instead we have found multiple grain toast like Melba toast. Sardines and clams in cans on toast plus drinking the olive oil from the can as an energy supplimentation. Small containers of honey and jam on toast, oranges and tangerines, apples, and chocolate comes in here somewhere. We nibble during the entire walk. I don't know if any one has figured the calorie burn per 10 miles at 3 miles per hour and any hill the camino wants to throw at you. I do know you will loose weight. Stu

Day 10: Ages to Burgos











Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map" 
then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.

Name:
Ages-Burgos
Date:
Apr 24, 2011 5:58 am
Map:
(valid until Oct 21, 2011)
Distance:
14.0 miles
Elapsed Time:
4:43:55
Avg Speed:
3.0 mph
Max Speed:
6.2 mph
Avg Pace:
20' 18" per mile
Min Altitude:
2,827 ft
Max Altitude:
3,529 ft
Start Time:
2011-04-24T03:58:11Z
Start Location:
Latitude:
42.369568º N
Longitude:
3.479194º W
End Location:
Latitude:
42.341969º N
Longitude:
3.703717º W