Back to Santiago

May 18
Muxia was as much a spectacular setting as Finisterre but more so. Those who have walked to Muxia more than once like it's intimacy with the sea and the constant cry of the gulls. The most salient feature is the church built facing the sea almost at sea level. The albergue is new with all facilities. The bus stop is close by. Our trip back to Santiago left at 0645. We are now in Santiago in our favorite pocket room. The cab will pick us up at 0600 to take us to the bus station for a 0700 to 1500 ride to Madrid. We once again visited the Cathedral and walked through a dazzlingly beautiful park that gives you a chance to look back at the Cathedral. Most surprising occurrence of the day is once again we stumbled into our Australian friends.

Our Australian Friends

Karen helped Stuart to adjust his pack outside the albergue in Burgos. We bumped into them in Leon. Then today in Santiago. Small encounters like this happened many times along the Camino. Those we encountered who helped us along the way will be a part of our story telling.
The Camino experience never ends. You add it to your life story and it humbles you. Thoughtfulness of others and being of service to those in need. Surely you can't go wrong...
It is our time to finally disembark. To future Camino Pilgrims - Buen Camino

Farewell Santiago !

We saw the movie "The Way"; and, after getting very emotional, we decided to return to Spain. Follow us as we walk the Via de la Plata and the Via de la Ingles . We start on Saturday, April 14, 2012.

If you have any questions email:
Joanliz@me.com
OTHER BLOGS:

Caminowalkabout.blogspot.com (Frances, Finisterra, Muxia)

Caminowalkaboutnorte.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutplata.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutingles.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutlakecountry.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutoahu.blogspot.com

 Caminowalkabouteurope.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutitaly.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutnorthcoast.blogspot.com
caminowalkaboutpinnacles.blogspot.com
caminowalkaboutgermany.blogspot.com

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Day 33 Lires-Muxia

May 17 

Well we made it once again to the end of the world. It was a beautiful walk over the mountain, through the small villages.  A farmer showed us his crops. What I thought was tomato plants turned out to be potatoe plants. We met a Frenchman who has helped us before.  He explained how to get into Muxia without getting lost. We then met a German woman we met in Finisterre  who was on her way back. Her daughter lives I'n Stockton California. Roads were easy to walk. Lovely. We came into Muxia. It is a small fishing port with a population of a little over 6000. An interesting place with narrow winding streets. We walked the city and then came up to the modern new albergue that has 24 beds. Cost is 5 euros each. We then went to the harbor for lunch. I wanted to try pulpo which is a spicy octopus. Not my thing. It is too rubbery. Stu had to eat most of it as i ate the baby clams. Excellent  we had salad, bread and Ribera wine. 

Name:		Lires-muxia
Date:		May 16, 2011 10:32 pm
Map: (valid until Jan 1, 2012)		View on Map
Distance:		6.78 miles
Elapsed Time:		5:04:25
Avg Speed:		1.3 mph
Max Speed:		5.4 mph
Avg Pace:		44' 55" per mile
Min Altitude:		12 ft
Max Altitude:		886 ft
Start Time:		2011-05-17T05:32:14Z
Start Location:
	Latitude:	42.998009º N
	Longitude:	9.243111º W
End Location:
	Latitude:	43.103753º N
	Longitude:	9.216664º W

  

Photos Muxia

Final day on the camino

Ringing church bells Muxia

Church of our Lady of the Boat Muxia

Albergue in Muxia

Was it Worth it?

Was it worth it?, we ask our selves after 900 k. Stu had problems with his shin and toes. I had problems with both knees and bedbugs bites. The answer is a resounding yes, yes, yes. You cannot rush when you are walking. You are surrounded by the intimacy and beauty of the land.  Photographs cannot capture the all encompassing beauty, the smells and sounds of rivers and birds and silence and the feeling of the breeze or the sun. Then there are the people of Northern Spain that go out of the way to help. The old lady who took time to look up and direct us to her favorite restaurant. The men and women who ran out of bars or stopped  their cars to direct us. To the farmers who told us about their cows or crops, and store owners to the hotel workers that took time to look after us with such kindness. While I shopped 1 day a store keeper brought Stu a plate of olives to eat while he waited. Lastly the other pilgrims from all over the world. Some could speak English and some could not but a bond was surely made.  We all looked after each other supporting in any way we could. We endured the pain and celebrated the connection we had all made with the spirit and history of this land. 

As we leave Galicia a fellow pilgrim offered this Celtic prayer and we offer it back to all we have met and those we know .

May the road rise to meet you
May the wind be always at your back
May the sun shine full upon your face
May the rain fall soft upon your field
Until we meet again
May God hold you
In the hollow of his hand

Photos Hotel Lires and last meal Muxia

Hotel at Lires

Lires And breakfast was awaiting for us

Muxia The waiter 's photo

Muxia final celebrative meal
I promised Joan pulpa. Didn't sell.

Muxia The final pilgrim toast to all 
who have shared this blog and adventure with us. 

Photos en route to Liras

Sighting the Atlantic Ocean on approach to Muxia

May 16 Lires-Muxia

Our walk to Lires


Stu


We were out of the Finisterre albergue early to walk to the light house. Mile marker "0" stands facing east resiliently against the wind and weather. Our plan is to walk to Lires about half way to Muxia. We have time and the weather is perfect. We slowed down inebriated by the warmth of the sun and relaxed countryside. The walk into Finisterre the previous day was intense exertion down a continuously rubbled dirt path. Those who have walked this route before chose to walk to Muxia from Olveiroa then to Finisterre. Needless we arrived in a wilted state which took a giant meal of assorted crustacea to soothe. In my mind the camino Santiago doesn't end until you get to the final marker at the sea. So different than the miles we have covered inland. Thank the stars and planets we have had perfect weather. Our clothes are dry we are about to eat again and we are in a room with a big double bed. We can get up and down without hitting our heads on the bunk above us. We are slowly transitioning to the very expensive modern world. Tomorrow we will conclude this blog from Spain.  Once home we will share our memories of this grand adventure. slowly transitioning to the very expensive modern world. As we travel south to Santiago and on to Madrid, we will add additional pages to this blog. We will be back in California on June 1st. If you have any questions, here is our email address stuwmson@me.com


Joan


We had to say goodby to Anton last night. He is an Italian from Mayore.  He is in late 50s I think  a marathon runner as well as doing ultra marathons. He just ran 160k before this walk. He had to go back home.  We got up late about 6:15.  We walked out to the light house about 9 1/2  k round trip. It was glorious.  Blue sky and you can see forever. They call it the coast of death. The end of land and only water. We then started our walk to Muxia.  We planned to walk 1/2 way. So we walked up through forests and villages with views of the coast. Along the way we met 3 women, 2 from London and 1 from Sweden. They did the camino 2 years ago. They started in April and had snow, rain, hail and mud. They came to do just the Finistere and Muxia part. They went backwards to avoid the bad hill in Cee. They suggested that we stay in Lires a small hotel with a restaurant.  Which we have done. It is lovely and sits at the top of a hill. We had salad and 2 delicious kinds of fish. I am going to have to try and get a Galician cookbook. One fish was cooked in the oven with asparagus and butter clams and shrimp in a delicious sause. The other grilled with a red pepper sauce. Both soft white meat. So delicious. We then had chocolate cake. And a whipped cream and strawberry cake. I have already signed up for dinner at 8pm. As I write this I am resting and Stu is asleep. We will be ready to start a new day tomorrow and finish our extreme walking at Muxia. 


We had a wonderful dinner last night followed by 3 deserts. The jefe of this wonderful hotel must have thought we were too thin because he gave us 2 deserts at lunch and 3 deserts at dinner. Once again a chocolate cake, a whipcream and strawberry Cale and flaun. All delicious  the rooms wer attractive spacious and clean. The bed was perfect. Even though I told him we left early no breakfast. He told me he would leave something out. He left fresh new bread, butter, jam and honey. He left sweet cakes , orange juice and coffee with cream in a thermos.  There is no better place then. Les Lires. 

Day 32 Finisterre-Lires

Walking distance and time

Name:		Finisterre-Lires
Date:		May 16, 2011 6:52 am
Map: (valid until Nov 12, 2011)		View on Map
Distance:		13.3 miles
Elapsed Time:		5:47:59
Avg Speed:		2.3 mph
Max Speed:		6.7 mph
Avg Pace:		26' 12" per mile
Min Altitude:		13 ft
Max Altitude:		442 ft
Start Time:		2011-05-16T04:52:44Z
Start Location:
	Latitude:	42.908062º N
	Longitude:	9.263273º W
End Location:
	Latitude:	42.998055º N
	Longitude:	9.242398º W

Photos Finisterre and kilometer "0"

The lighthouse at Finisterra

Pilgrim statue

Cross at the end of the world

Joan at mile "0". She made it!

I think I see Finesterra!

Misc photos

Stu in the rack

And out of it

En route to Finisterre

Stu at dinner in Finisterre drinking all the wine

These barnacles are delicious

Reunion with our French friend. we hugged  and are friends for life

Chee. and still miles to go to Finesterra

Day 31 Olveiroa-Finisterre

Cape Finisterre

May 15

The walks seem to be getting harder. My knee was bad yesterday. We went out to dinner and came back to the albergue, and did not check today's route. Consequently we got lost and Anton, an Italian man we have walked with in the past, rescued us and showed us the path. So off we went up the hill by the windmills. Just great and then over the moors for 12 k. There was clear sky, sun but 30 mile an hour wind not too bad until we had to go down to this fishing village Cee. The road down for at least a mile was all loose large rocks. It was the worse road I have ever walked. The wind kept blowing me to the side and I was trying to balance and not fall  I was so tired when I got to the bottom. We were still miles from our beds.  I will tell you that when we arrived one of our friends from Austria hurt his knee on that road and could not walk. He had to take a taxi and is in his bunk  We gave him some ibuprofen gel. That's all we had. The beaches here are white sand and blue water. Gorgeous. Our biggest surprise was Frenchie. We lost him along the way but met up again at the albergue.  He started out with us. He speaks little English. But he is a walker and has walked all over France. He has a map and he has marked all the places. It was so good to see him and get his hug and kisses. Stu and I went out to celibrate. We passed an older woman sitting in her window and I asked her the best place to get shell fish. She sent us to a place the locals go to. We had plates of butter clams, muscles, little crabs and big crabs and something else I have never had something like a periwinkle. Delicious. Followed by Santiago tort and of course lots of white wine. I am tired. Tomorrow we go out to the light house and then start for Muxia.  

Day 30 Negreira-Olveiroa

Our friend Tom

May 14

After walking for 7 hours we finished the 20.5 miles. We went up and down 1400 feet. We left in the dark at 5:45. We stopped just for snacks because we were concerned about getting beds.  Last night they had to turn away people.  The same is happening here with only 30 beds.  There are people going to Finistere and Muxia and there are people returning.  We got here at 1 and there were few beds left.  We made it. I was tired and my right knee was killing me. We met a walking party of Spanish men and women. Every weekend they walk 20 to 25 k. One of the men who lived in Germany for 6 years is coming to US in August. Direct flight to Las Vegas, and then he will go to the Grand Canyon and New York.  Interesting man. We walked through forests and along country roads with both fields and cows. Everybody in our albergue was out and on the road by 6:30. I think all our friends got beds. We had our supper with Tom a Danish man  He is a teacher and on his holidays he is a guide for Danish families In Greece and Italy. Fascinating man. After dinner we met a man from Germany and he has done the Camino 8 times from France and Seville and the north route over the mountains. Everyone has a story.Tomorrow we get to Finisterre 18 miles  if we both can walk in the morning. I have convinced Stu that drugs are good . Caffeine in the am and ibuprofen at night. 

Albergue at Olveiroa. only 5 in this little house

be sure if you arrive early to save the beds here

Restaurant in Olveiroa

Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right top margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.

The trip to the cape in sunlight and wind. Looking forward to the "0" marker

Name:		Negreira-Olveiroa
Date:		May 14, 2011 5:39 am
Map: (valid until Nov 11, 2011)		View on Map
Distance:		20.5 miles
Elapsed Time:		6:40:06
Avg Speed:		3.1 mph
Max Speed:		4.3 mph
Avg Pace:		19' 33" per mile
Min Altitude:		518 ft
Max Altitude:		1,401 ft
Start Time:		2011-05-14T03:39:59Z
Start Location:
	Latitude:	42.903469º N
	Longitude:	8.741271º W
End Location:
	Latitude:	42.967396º N
	Longitude:	9.039483º W

Day 29 Santiago-Negreira (Camino Finisterre)

Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right top margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.

hey say this is the easiest of the four legs. If it is, why are we so warn out....

Name:		Santiago-Negreira
Date:		May 13, 2011 6:28 am
Map: (valid until Nov 9, 2011)		View on Map
Distance:		14.5 miles
Elapsed Time:		6:19:58
Avg Speed:		2.3 mph
Max Speed:		8.8 mph
Avg Pace:		26' 11" per mile
Min Altitude:		64 ft
Max Altitude:		932 ft
Start Time:		2011-05-13T04:28:53Z
Start Location:
	Latitude:	42.879527º N
	Longitude:	8.542210º W
End Location:
	Latitude:	42.903269º N
	Longitude:	8.741144º W

Misc photos

On the way to Santiago

on the way to Santiago

walking slowly for the trip is almost over

Never to get used to the Camino's beauty

Cathedral in Santiago

We made it

What do you mean "This isn't Santiago!!"

We thought we had lost The Austrians

View from our attic window Santiago

another view from our attic room Santiago

Joan looking out of our attic window at the view above

Just large enough for two unpacked packs and two people

double bed spreed supper in Melide

Day 27 Melide to Santa Irene

May 11

Melide to Santa Irene

We left the hotel early having neither of us slept very well. The hotel was very warm and light so we could not get comfortable. We had a double bed for the 1st time. It was the typical 1 star hotel bed. Everything rolls to the middle. Well another beautiful day. We wound thru the quiet streets of the city where you can smell fresh bread in the air. The panaderias are in full swing. The arrows led us down narrow winding streets out into the country. A beautiful sunny day and we had to take off our jackets by 7.  Most of the day was out in the country. We went thru many different kinds of forests and crossed 4 rivers. We walked by freshly cut hay and small farms with cows. We were alone most of the time but passed many pilgrims that stopped for coffee or a beer or a Bocadillo.  Today is our  last full day walking so I controlled myself and walked slowly. 19 miles later we arrived at a very small village probably no more then 5 or 6 buildings. One being an albergue. Not even a bar. I must explain that a bar is just a cafe with food and coke or beer or water. This is a very nice albergue  only 15 beds.  One of those beds is mine and is off in a little small alcove, lovely. It was 13 euros each and 10 for dinner each,  but they have fresh clean sheets and real towels. They have a huge backyard with tables and chairs. We sat out there in the sun. Stu drinking beer, I with my Coke and 3 women from Finland  we met on the way had wine. Interesting women that met each other along the way, and had not known each other before. I washed the clothes by hand. All the allbergue's have a sink outside for washing clothes and they are drying in the sun. So we will have a lovely dinner  tonight of fish and soup and bread and desert. Tomorrow we will walk to Santiago. Only 20 k from here. We should be there by noon. So the first part of our journey is done. Stu was so worried that we would not be able to complete it in 5 weeks and not be able to walk to the coast of Spain less than 100k further on.  Instead we will have finished in less then a month. 


We had a spectacular dinner last night. They had 2 large tables,15 people In all. Stu was In his glory because everyone at our table spoke English. We had the three women from Iceland two from Germany and 1 from Austria and some Italians.  He is quite tired of talking to me. The soup was a pasta soup and delicious it was followed by a fish that was so delicate but looked like halibut, served with potatoes and peas. We had a good evening and both slept well. 

reading with clean sheets and towels Santa Irene

new hair color and corner bed at Santa Irene

Be sure you have downloaded Google Earth. click on "View on Map"
then click on "View on Google Earth" found in the upper right top margin.
There are thousands of pictures of the Camino you can view.

Name:		Melide-Santa Irene
Date:		May 10, 2011 9:00 pm
Map: (valid until Jan 1, 2012)		View on Map
Distance:		19.1 miles
Elapsed Time:		6:41:21
Avg Speed:		2.9 mph
Max Speed:		4.9 mph
Avg Pace:		20' 59" per mile
Min Altitude:		1,005 ft
Max Altitude:		1,525 ft
Start Time:		2011-05-11T04:00:50Z
Start Location:
	Latitude:	42.914643º N
	Longitude:	8.011675º W
End Location:
	Latitude:	42.916929º N
	Longitude:	8.332120º W