Thursday, May 19, 2011

Back to Santiago

May 18
Muxia was as much a spectacular setting as Finisterre but more so. Those who have walked to Muxia more than once like it's intimacy with the sea and the constant cry of the gulls. The most salient feature is the church built facing the sea almost at sea level. The albergue is new with all facilities. The bus stop is close by. Our trip back to Santiago left at 0645. We are now in Santiago in our favorite pocket room. The cab will pick us up at 0600 to take us to the bus station for a 0700 to 1500 ride to Madrid. We once again visited the Cathedral and walked through a dazzlingly beautiful park that gives you a chance to look back at the Cathedral. Most surprising occurrence of the day is once again we stumbled into our Australian friends.
Our Australian Friends
Karen helped Stuart to adjust his pack outside the albergue in Burgos. We bumped into them in Leon. Then today in Santiago. Small encounters like this happened many times along the Camino. Those we encountered who helped us along the way will be a part of our story telling.
The Camino experience never ends. You add it to your life story and it humbles you. Thoughtfulness of others and being of service to those in need. Surely you can't go wrong...
It is our time to finally disembark. To future Camino Pilgrims - Buen Camino
Farewell Santiago !

We saw the movie "The Way"; and, after getting very emotional, we decided to return to Spain. Follow us as we walk the Via de la Plata and the Via de la Ingles . We start on Saturday, April 14, 2012.
If you have any questions email:
Joanliz@me.com
OTHER BLOGS:
Caminowalkabout.blogspot.com (Frances, Finisterra, Muxia)
 Caminowalkabouteurope.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutitaly.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutnorthcoast.blogspot.com
caminowalkaboutpinnacles.blogspot.com
caminowalkaboutgermany.blogspot.com


Day 33 Lires-Muxia

May 17 

Well we made it once again to the end of the world. It was a beautiful walk over the mountain, through the small villages.  A farmer showed us his crops. What I thought was tomato plants turned out to be potatoe plants. We met a Frenchman who has helped us before.  He explained how to get into Muxia without getting lost. We then met a German woman we met in Finisterre  who was on her way back. Her daughter lives I'n Stockton California. Roads were easy to walk. Lovely. We came into Muxia. It is a small fishing port with a population of a little over 6000. An interesting place with narrow winding streets. We walked the city and then came up to the modern new albergue that has 24 beds. Cost is 5 euros each. We then went to the harbor for lunch. I wanted to try pulpo which is a spicy octopus. Not my thing. It is too rubbery. Stu had to eat most of it as i ate the baby clams. Excellent  we had salad, bread and Ribera wine. 

Name:
Lires-muxia
Date:
May 16, 2011 10:32 pm
Map:
(valid until Jan 1, 2012)
Distance:
6.78 miles
Elapsed Time:
5:04:25
Avg Speed:
1.3 mph
Max Speed:
5.4 mph
Avg Pace:
44' 55" per mile
Min Altitude:
12 ft
Max Altitude:
886 ft
Start Time:
2011-05-17T05:32:14Z
Start Location:


Latitude:
42.998009º N

Longitude:
9.243111º W
End Location:


Latitude:
43.103753º N

Longitude:
9.216664º W
  

Photos Muxia

Final day on the camino

Ringing church bells Muxia

Church of our Lady of the Boat Muxia

Albergue in Muxia

Was it Worth it?

Was it worth it?, we ask our selves after 900 k. Stu had problems with his shin and toes. I had problems with both knees and bedbugs bites. The answer is a resounding yes, yes, yes. You cannot rush when you are walking. You are surrounded by the intimacy and beauty of the land.  Photographs cannot capture the all encompassing beauty, the smells and sounds of rivers and birds and silence and the feeling of the breeze or the sun. Then there are the people of Northern Spain that go out of the way to help. The old lady who took time to look up and direct us to her favorite restaurant. The men and women who ran out of bars or stopped  their cars to direct us. To the farmers who told us about their cows or crops, and store owners to the hotel workers that took time to look after us with such kindness. While I shopped 1 day a store keeper brought Stu a plate of olives to eat while he waited. Lastly the other pilgrims from all over the world. Some could speak English and some could not but a bond was surely made.  We all looked after each other supporting in any way we could. We endured the pain and celebrated the connection we had all made with the spirit and history of this land. 

As we leave Galicia a fellow pilgrim offered this Celtic prayer and we offer it back to all we have met and those we know .

May the road rise to meet you
May the wind be always at your back
May the sun shine full upon your face
May the rain fall soft upon your field
Until we meet again
May God hold you
In the hollow of his hand

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Photos Hotel Lires and last meal Muxia

Hotel at Lires

Lires And breakfast was awaiting for us

Muxia The waiter 's photo


Muxia final celebrative meal
I promised Joan pulpa. Didn't sell.


Muxia The final pilgrim toast to all 
who have shared this blog and adventure with us. 

Monday, May 16, 2011

Photos en route to Liras

Sighting the Atlantic Ocean on approach to Muxia


May 16 Lires-Muxia

Our walk to Lires


Stu


We were out of the Finisterre albergue early to walk to the light house. Mile marker "0" stands facing east resiliently against the wind and weather. Our plan is to walk to Lires about half way to Muxia. We have time and the weather is perfect. We slowed down inebriated by the warmth of the sun and relaxed countryside. The walk into Finisterre the previous day was intense exertion down a continuously rubbled dirt path. Those who have walked this route before chose to walk to Muxia from Olveiroa then to Finisterre. Needless we arrived in a wilted state which took a giant meal of assorted crustacea to soothe. In my mind the camino Santiago doesn't end until you get to the final marker at the sea. So different than the miles we have covered inland. Thank the stars and planets we have had perfect weather. Our clothes are dry we are about to eat again and we are in a room with a big double bed. We can get up and down without hitting our heads on the bunk above us. We are slowly transitioning to the very expensive modern world. Tomorrow we will conclude this blog from Spain.  Once home we will share our memories of this grand adventure. slowly transitioning to the very expensive modern world. As we travel south to Santiago and on to Madrid, we will add additional pages to this blog. We will be back in California on June 1st. If you have any questions, here is our email address stuwmson@me.com


Joan


We had to say goodby to Anton last night. He is an Italian from Mayore.  He is in late 50s I think  a marathon runner as well as doing ultra marathons. He just ran 160k before this walk. He had to go back home.  We got up late about 6:15.  We walked out to the light house about 9 1/2  k round trip. It was glorious.  Blue sky and you can see forever. They call it the coast of death. The end of land and only water. We then started our walk to Muxia.  We planned to walk 1/2 way. So we walked up through forests and villages with views of the coast. Along the way we met 3 women, 2 from London and 1 from Sweden. They did the camino 2 years ago. They started in April and had snow, rain, hail and mud. They came to do just the Finistere and Muxia part. They went backwards to avoid the bad hill in Cee. They suggested that we stay in Lires a small hotel with a restaurant.  Which we have done. It is lovely and sits at the top of a hill. We had salad and 2 delicious kinds of fish. I am going to have to try and get a Galician cookbook. One fish was cooked in the oven with asparagus and butter clams and shrimp in a delicious sause. The other grilled with a red pepper sauce. Both soft white meat. So delicious. We then had chocolate cake. And a whipped cream and strawberry cake. I have already signed up for dinner at 8pm. As I write this I am resting and Stu is asleep. We will be ready to start a new day tomorrow and finish our extreme walking at Muxia. 


We had a wonderful dinner last night followed by 3 deserts. The jefe of this wonderful hotel must have thought we were too thin because he gave us 2 deserts at lunch and 3 deserts at dinner. Once again a chocolate cake, a whipcream and strawberry Cale and flaun. All delicious  the rooms wer attractive spacious and clean. The bed was perfect. Even though I told him we left early no breakfast. He told me he would leave something out. He left fresh new bread, butter, jam and honey. He left sweet cakes , orange juice and coffee with cream in a thermos.  There is no better place then. Les Lires.